022 703Buddhist Monument and Mall: Will Twain Meet?
By JANE
PERLEZ
OROBUDUR,
Indonesia — The ancient carved stone terraces of the Borobudur
monument rise out of the plain of central Java like a grand wedding
cake trimmed with hundreds of Buddha statues.
Raymond Bonner/The New York Times
Borobudur, an ancient Buddhist monument in central
Java, at daybreak. A shopping mall, called Java
World, may be built nearby.
The New
York Times
Borobudur
symbolizes the Buddhist civilization of long ago.
But the sanctity of the temple that symbolizes the Buddhist
civilization that flourished here more than a millennium ago is
under threat. Gov. Mardiyanto of central Java, a powerful local
politician, has announced plans to build a mall that he says will
provide a cleaner environment for the souvenir stands that jostle
each other for space around the gateway to the monument.
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What especially offends the sensibilities of Indonesian
conservationists is the governor's proposed name for the mall: Java
World, a shade too close to Disney World, say the opponents.
Moreover, they argue that Mr. Mardiyanto's plan for a tramway to
take tourists from the mall to the base of the monument could shake
the monument's foundations, which are already sinking year by year.
Angry local villagers have held protests. They asked Mr.
Mardiyanto to attend a meeting with them under the shade of a banyan
tree to explain why he wanted to introduce Western style
commercialism to the monument that is the most popular tourist
destination for Indonesians. For Indonesian schoolchildren, an
excursion to Borobudur is a landmark event, far more so than a visit
to a Hindu temple in the Westernized playground of Bali.
Mr. Mardiyanto told the protesters that he wanted to get rid of
the shabby stalls and grubby ice chests of the soda pop vendors at
the entrance to the monument.
The local leader of the protests, Sutanto, said he agreed that
the hawkers give a tawdry image to a place that should be serene.
But he said a fancy building would be worse.
"I don't want a big building with three stories," said Mr.
Sutanto, who led a "poetry protest" that consisted of readings in
honor of the monument. "I'm worried that if the mall is successful
there will be an immigration of very rich investors and this will
become like Fifth Avenue."
Mr. Sutanto added, "If you're tired in New York and you want a
break, you won't want to come here for
McDonald's and Kentucky Fried
Chicken."
Instead of building a substantial new structure, Mr. Sutanto
proposed a low slung shelter with an attractive Javanese style roof.
To the critics' surprise, the governor agreed to put his plans on
hold, pending further discussion.
The opposition says it is not letting up. In Jakarta, architects
have sent letters to Unesco headquarters in Paris, saying that the
governor's plans would desecrate the monument and destabilize its
foundations.
In 1991, Unesco made Borobudur as a world heritage site, a
designation that is supposed to protect it from commercial
intrusions.
"We are concerned that the construction phase of a project of
this size in this location would endanger the foundations of the
temple," the Indonesian chapter of the International Council of
Monuments and Sites told Unesco in a letter last month.
No written records have been found to explain why Borobudur was
built. No ancient cities have been found on the surrounding plain.
The lack of evidence gives today's experts ample room for
speculation. Some theorize that the builders of Borobudur, whose
construction began about 770 and took about 60 years to complete,
did not intend to create a temple. There is no obvious sanctuary as
a place for worship; there are no rooms to store icons.
Rather, these experts believe the idea was to establish an
extravagant showpiece that demonstrated the principles of Buddhism.
With its intricate carved reliefs depicting the essence of Buddhism,
the builders of Borobudur wanted "to engage the mind" and to "give a
visual aid for teaching a gentle philosophy of life," an expert on
the temple, John N. Miksic, wrote recently in a historical book,
"Borobudur: Golden Tales of the Buddhas."
Like many archaeologically important monuments, Borobudur has
gone through difficult phases. For reasons not entirely clear, it
was abandoned in the 10th century. Four hundred years later Islam
came to Indonesia via Arab traders.
For years Borobudur was overgrown by jungle. Early 19th-century
drawings by a British artist show huge trees sprouting from its
terraces. By 1850, cleared of some of the growth by the Dutch
colonizers of Indonesia, it became a popular picnic spot. The Dutch
went so far as to build a teahouse on its pinnacle.
Under the authoritarian rule of Suharto, the monument was
restored. From 1974 to 1983, local farmers were marshaled into a
labor force for dismantling and rebuilding, supervised by
international engineers and archaeologists.
Most of the cost of the $25 million restoration was paid by
Indonesia. To benefit from that investment, argues Marco
Kusumawijaya, an architect in Jakarta, Indonesians should hold fast
to the true character of Borobudur. "Aren't we supposed to show that
we are a civilized nation that can take good care of what has been
entrusted to us as an heirloom by one of the world's biggest
civilizations and at least for another 1,000 years?" he asked.